Life in St James’s

Present

“London par excellence is bounded on the north by Piccadilly, on the south by Pall Mall, on the east by Haymarket, and on the west by St James’s Street..” – Theodore Hook

St James’s is unique. There is no parallel in London to this wonderful concentration of beautiful and distinctive architecture, including St James’s Palace and some of the greatest town houses built in the 18th century by the aristocracy. It has not only retained its celebrated heritage but has continued to be a vibrant and evolving part of London, with a thriving community that has continued to grow. Its collection of historic clubs and shops include some of the oldest establishments and family run businesses and sit alongside world leading contemporary art galleries making it a key destination for tourists and Londoners alike.

The Trust does not seek only preservation of the past, but also seeks continuity. Without careful planning controls this special area would soon resemble certain parts of the West End with 24 hour licensing. The development of the area needs careful monitoring without affecting its prosperity. There is a need for diversity in a city like London. The adjacent entertainment village of Piccadilly, Leicester Square and Soho, have a character and history of their own, which should be respected, but not allowed to overrun the character and history of St. James’s.

Past

History

The Trust was founded, initially as the St. James’s Conservation Society, in 1998, by The Hon. Dominic Elliot and John Beveridge QC, both local residents of the core area of St. James’s, to conserve the world class historic architecture and to preserve the social framework of this small but historically important area from inappropriate planning developments and licensing developments.

In 1999 the Society was incorporated as the St. James’s Conservation Trust Limited and, in 2000, it acquired charitable status.

Why St. James’s is Unique

For several hundred years, St. James’s was at the heart of national life and it is still in the heart of London, today. It is only a few hundred yards from Buckingham Palace and the Palace of Westminster and close to Piccadilly and Leicester Square immediately to the east. Its character has kept pace with the demands of a modern city but, perhaps because it is protected on two flanks by St. James’s and Green Parks, it retains signification elements of its historic past. Apart from the Palace itself, and the broad thoroughfare running through it from Waterloo Place to Piccadilly, there are 150 listed buildings in these few streets, while its collection of historic clubs and shops is unique in the world. In Berry and Rudd one finds a shop still under the guidance of a Mr. Berry, which has a weighing book with contemporary entries from Byron, Brummel and Prinny, among other names, which link us to the past. There is still a Mr Lobb in Lobbs, and a hatter, a chemist, a cheesemonger and a perfumier, still in family ownership after 200-300 years. Until very recently, the record was held by Spinks, with a Mr. Spink present, since the 1660’s. No doubt the members of the St. James’s Clubs patronise these shops, as earlier members of the same clubs left the same chairs to shop, all down the years.

The Trust does not seek only preservation of the past, but seeks continuity. Without most careful planning controls this special area would soon resemble an annex of the City, as developers, striving to make a profit for themselves and their investors, maximise the use of the land from a purely commercial standpoint. The profit motive is the engine of development, but other values must also be allowed to exist. There is a need for diversity in a city like London. The adjacent entertainment village of Piccadilly, Leicester Square and Soho, have a character and history of their own, which should be respected, but not allowed to overrun the character and history of St. James’s.

Historical Interest Stories

In 1661, Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, obtained a grant of Crown land from Charles II to develop a residential neighbourhood in the area known as St James’s Field. His first development was to be St James’s Square, and he would come to be regarded as the true founder of London’s West End. From the outset St James’s flourished and was immediately a fashionable address. It has played host to a plethora of well known people: some famous, some infamous, and others fictional. Lord Byron frequented its clubs and tea rooms while he resided at Albany, the apartment complex on Piccadilly, famous for its bachelors. Oscar Wilde would base the bossy Jack Worthing here in The Importance of Being Earnest, and just to the south, Jermyn Street alone was the residence for the likes of William Pitt, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir Walter Scott, William Gladstone, and W.M Thackeray.

St James’s is also the home of many of the best known gentlemen’s clubs in London; sometimes being referred to as “Clubland”. One of the most famous is the Atheneum Club in Pall Mall. Its members have included, amongst others, Charles Dickens, Charles Darwin, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and Winston Churchill. However, none of these distinguished men were treated quite as well as the Duke of Wellington, who requested that a pair of raised kerb stones be put outside the club for him to mount and dismount his horse !

The ‘Iron Duke’ may have fought his battles abroad but St James’s has also witnessed its fair share of violence and disturbance, including, it is said, the last duel in London. This was thought to have been fought in the tiny courtyard off Pickering Place which, interestingly, was the site of the Texan Republic’s embassy (until it joined the United States in 1845). The Squares seclusion made it notorious for its gambling dens, bear baiting and duels; and it is even said that Beau Brummel, close friend to King George IV and inventor of the cravat, once fought here.